After stashing my gear, I found a big bottle of water and a pleasant looking cafe with a view of the surrounding mountains. The waiter took my plea for fresh orange juice seriously, and offered, “to try”. He promised a hearty omelet and toast before asking if I had “seen the lion”. “Seriously”, I questioned him. I didn’t think there were lions in Morocco, but it is Africa. [Forgive me. I was sleepy]. He laughed and said “No. It’s in the mountain.” It was then, when I looked very carefully where he was pointing, that I saw the features of a lion’s face in the plunging walls of a mountain on the far side of the valley. I sat there and pondered works of art found in nature, local lore and legend. Moments later, a tall glass of orange juice appeared before me, and replenished body and soul.
The omelet that came shortly thereafter was a bit greasy (in the Moroccan style), but came liberally doused with cumin. The combination of oil, thinly cooked egg (well done) and fresh cumin was a revelation. From that day forward, I’ve always loved cumin on eggs. It’s not a common flavor combination, but it is divine. And when paired with Morocco’s crusty round loaves of airy bread perfection (khobz) they are a simple and sustaining delight. And, that day, they fueled me for a long hike through an oasis and desert canyons.
Ultimately, we were successful in our quest. We found the rocks, and, eventually, the gazelle. But, sadly, we did have a fairly nasty run-in with an overeager rug merchant. Ahh, well. It’s Morocco.
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Cop Cachet: I saw no police whatsoever, and the locals at the cafe were mostly chatting with the owner and not eating. That said, it, by default, was a “local joint”. In fact, it was likely, “the” local joint.
Mug Meter: There were no mugs, only juice glasses, silver tea pots, and glasses of mint tea.