Maybe I’m just getting older, but I find myself become more willing to tolerate “nice” diners. And the Stella Diner in Dublin’s Rathmines neighborhood is a very nice diner.
The Stella’s clean tile, dark wood, deep soft red booths, ornate lamps, and a long griddle-adjacent counter with comfortable seats (and a foot rail at the perfect height) testify to the care and thought put in to “the Stella”.
When you add to that free refills on filter coffee, fluffy pancakes, and Irish link sausage with actual spice, flavor, and taste, you have the recipe for a real, genuine, American-style diner in Dublin.
With an extensive menu of not just diner breakfast staples, but other classic diner favorites (meatloaf, steaks, chops, chicken, burgers, hotdogs, pie, shakes, etc.) the Stella brings the full diner experience to the table. The food is good and plentiful. Prices are not “dive diner” low, but you pay for quality. And by Dublin standards (way over-priced) the Stella’s prices are not out of line.
When I first visited The Stella (on a busy Saturday night), they were fairly new and still hitting their service stride. But successive visits (on a sleepy weekday morning, and a busy Friday night) have confirmed that service standards receive as much attention as decor and food.
For breakfast, the coffee was fresh and hot. My blueberry stack consisted of three large, fluffy pancakes, each with a healthy load (8-10 berries each) of fat “griddled-in” berries (not just topped as an afterthought). The bacon was close to American bacon (but not quite there yet) and nicely crisped to order. The sausage are links, but they were good and firm, well-grilled, and have an excellent fat-to-meat ratio. They were spicy enough for me to get by on, but not so hot as to turn off Irish customers (who tend to like their breakfast pork on the mild side). As with everything at the Stella they struck a good balance.
The almost-to-pretty (not down and dirty diner) vibe is the only real detractor for the Stella Diner, which, overall, delivers an excellent breakfast, with good service, in an inviting classic American diner setting.
Cop Cachet: Medium/Low – It’s a bit too pricey and too precious for beat cops or your average Joe.
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Mug Meter: Moderate – Good diner coffee, but the mugs are a bit too narrow to get a good morning snoot full of coffee aroma, and not quite heavy enough in the hand to have that satisfying diner mug heft, and were too thin to adequately shield you from the heat when full.
text and photos by Glenn D. Kaufmann
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